It's Tuesday morning and I'm packing my things before I head out to my business class. I'm not sure if I should bring my camera with me as I might not have time to come home and pick it up afterwards. You see tonight Korea is playing against Togo in the World Cup, and the game is being shown in many public places and I know I need to take some pictures of said events. The day before I'd had thoughts of going to buy a tripod before the event. I decide that I'm probably going to want to come home for a nap after work so leave the camera at home and kaibosh the tripod idea.
For my business class I've printed out an article from the Korea Herald which is about the night's festivities. Sadly last week I learned that one of the more regular students for the class I'm teaching has been in a car accident and injured his neck. He didn't show up this morning so it's just me and Edwin. Before I get the chance to start the lesson Edwin starts talking about tonight's game. I don't want to spoil the lesson so I hand him his notebook and he starts writing. You see, the first ten minutes of class I have the students write whatever's on their mind. I haven't read what he wrote yet but I'll bet it's something to do with soccer.
One of the points I wanted to discuss in the article is a mention of the red devils. Edwin tells me that the red devils are an organization that soccer fans join. I find this curious, I've never been in a sports team club. With 10 minutes left in the class we finish the lesson. This often happens when only one student shows up. Conversations simply don't grow the way I would like. Rather than start some lesson from the text book I've been provided with, I engage Edwin in casual conversation. As long as it's in English it's probably of some benefit to him.
He tells me that all the employees from his office are showing the game in the very room where the lesson is being conducted on the projector screen. I tell him I used to have a projector at home. He doesn't care and starts talking about soccer again. I tell him I'm going to City Hall, he seems pretty impressed. Apparently it's quite an ordeal. I start thinking out loud and mention that I don't have a red shirt. He pauses and leaves the room only to come back with a red devils jersey in red. I try it on and it fits tightly. I pussy foot around taking it, and eventually toss it in my bag along with his notebook. We have our awkward goodbye and I leave for the Hagwon.
When I get to the school everyone is buzzing. Teachers are wearing red, everyone seems upbeat and excited. I go to my computer and start checking the usual websites until I'm called in for a meeting. I have a seat. One of the Korean-American teachers comes in late wearing a Korea jersey and the principal lets out a sound indicating his approval. The meeting is about not letting kids dig in the sand.
When the kids start arriving they're all buzzing just like the teachers and other staff. Once everyone settles in I ask the kids what's special about today, and they all yell something about the game. I ask them if their parents will let them stay up to watch the game. Everyone in the class says they're staying up to watch the game. They start bragging about how late they've stayed up previously. I count from 5 down to 1, but they're still yammering on.
The end of the day comes and I've placed my cell phone on my desk. I start thinking should I sneak out early and get another 15 minutes of sleep? I determine that yes, this is the right thing to do, and proceed to pack up and leave. I get home and lay down in bed.
An hour and a half later I wake up and it's after six, and my eyes aren't working very well; I'd slept on my face. I spray on some cologne, apply more deodorant. I try to recall what time I was supposed to meet Craig and I think it was supposed to be around now. I reach into my pocket to grab my phone. It's not there, or in the other pocket. I check the first pocket again, but it's still not there. I'm still pretty groggy and check the other pocket again too. Oh shit. Back to the school I go.
My phones right where I left it, only now there's a lot of missed calls and texts. I head to the subway and call Craig at the same time. He says we should just meet at the City Hall subway station. I was hoping to get to his end of town because there's a great taco place there. There's no time so Craig says he'll pick a taco up for me, and meet me at the City Hall subway station. I say "fine" and then think in my head "you dick".
When I get to the subway I realize my stomach hurts. It's not hunger pains and I've been having the squirts on and off. "There's no time to deal with this now", I think to myself and head down to wait for the subway. I'm surprised by how few people are waiting for the train. Usually this stop is pretty nuts, however today there are a lot of the ladies dressed in a very pleasing way. Sweet. City Hall is basically the furthest stop on this line and the stomach pains have returned more strongly then faded away.
Two stops before City Hall I get off the train and make a run for the washroom while clenching tightly. I'm praying the toilet is not a squatter; I've never shit in one before and this would be a bad first time. I get to the bathroom, grab some TP (which is not kept in stalls here by the way), and sit in the only open stall which so happens to have a regular toilet. Such relief, in so many ways.
I'm back on the train which still seems pretty empty considering I read over a million people will be on the streets. 1 stop down, 2 stops down. Here I am. Somehow there's a line up to get out of the subway. There are a lot of people in the subway. I've never seen anything like this.
After what feels like a long time I get to street level. It's pretty busy, but there are still some cars and buses driving on the street. I see a KFC and am drawn in by the possibility of a chicken sandwich. The line is brutal and chaotic so I stand in the doorway and call Craig to find his whereabouts. I tell him I'm at the KFC and he says he sees it. I suggest he comes to meet me but he says he's tired and wants me to find him. This idea reeks of stupidity. He gives me instructions to help me find him but I only half listen knowing I'll never find him. He asks me to bring him two bottles of Soju and I say "sure", and think to myself "dipshit". I grab a kimbop from a street vendor and venture out to see if Craig can be found. Nope.
I take out my camera and start walking around looking for interesting things to shoot. Click, click, click. I start to get bored of the subject matter and put away my camera. All around me people are starting to settle down on the street. Slowly I get trapped in a sea of people sitting packed like sardines, the spot is good, I have a clear view of the massive screen that appears to only have 8 colors, I sit down thinking I can stay here.
Minutes later I remember sitting like this hurts my back, a lot. What to do, what to do? I stand up and look for a way out. I choose the direction with the shortest distance to people standing and start stepping on people. I make it past a few people and noticed there's a giant flag being passed over the crowd, who of course are sitting. The flag is heading right for me and there's no way I can get out of it's path in time. I decide I'm going to bend down as low as I can and lift it over me. Here it comes, ready, grab it and lift! Fuck, it's being held down hard. Shit, shit, ahhh! I get knocked over and fall on top of several people and lose a sandal.
The flag is really big and takes a minute or so to pass over top. Once it does, people help shove me to my feet. Yes. No. Here comes another flag. Jesus. I take a knee and survive the next flag. I get up, find my sandal, and head for standing area. I step on a few hands, knock over a coke and make it to safety. I notice a much better screen and I see that there is a sweet curb side spot where another photographer is standing, in front of him everyone is sitting so the screen is easily in sight, as long as I can stand. I take his side and
snap some shots.
It's closer to game time and I decide to text Craig. I discover I've missed his call. It's impossible to get a signal now for some reason so I just accept that I'll be flying solo. People start crowding in more densely and now my new spot is packed like sardines. An old man in front of me is very irritated by all the people trying to walk passed him. Occasional he yells at people and forces them to find another route. I find this most entertaining. One guy squeezes past me and seems to want to pass the old man, but doesn't. He's now standing right in front of my sweet spot and he's not leaving.
I have my camera out and when he turns to his friend I fire my super duper flash right in his face. Take that you bitch. I squeeze past him and force him back. A man next to me congragulates me. I laugh. The game's about to get started and everything is sweet. People behind me start sitting down. That's not good. Everyone around me starts sitting down. A Korean guy taps me on the shoulder and asks me to sit down. I decline. Another Korean guy taps me and gestures to me to sit down. I decline and indicate by forming an X with my arms. I turn around and something hits my back lightly. This is going to get worse before it gets better.
People start yelling "sit down!", then screaming. I turn around and yell stand up, then they yell "sit down!" I figure eventually they'll get frustrated and stand up. There's no way I'm sitting down, if I sit down I can't see shit. A hot Korean girl taps me on the arm and asks me nicely to sit down. I say "anio". She leaves. A minute later a Korea guy touches my shoulder and tells me to sit down. I say "where"? There's no room to sit now. His friend stands up and points to somewhere I have no interest in going. I turn around and a Korean waves his hand in front of my face. I say "no". I hear the word "waygook" a number of times.
At this point there's probably 6 Korean guys trying to deal with me and one of them starts grabbing my arms. "Don't fucking touch me!" I pull my arms out of his grip. He grabs my arm again and I repeat "Do not touch me!" I'm pretty sure I can kick all their asses, I have my empty bottle of Soju that I can smash in one of their faces, thinking jokingly to myself. Taking this further would be a bad idea, there are a lot of Koreans here. I say "OK, OK" and sit down, people are making room.
Hoping to smooth over the situation I yell "Fighting Korea!" They all enjoy that and give a cheer. I can't see shit. How can anyone behind me see anything. The game has started in all the excitement and I didn't even notice. Togo scores a goal but I can't see much. I turn around and everyone behind me is standing. Idiots. I stand up and a girl hands me a cardboard box so that I can kneel. Super. The half ends and Togo is up one nil. Everyone clears out. There's a shack near by that I stand next to and have a good view of the screen.
The second half starts and my new spot is sweet. Togo can't keep up with Korea and they take a brutal penalty, Togo's player takes a red card and Korea scores on the free kick.
Everyone goes nuts. So much that I get goosebumps. The old man next to me grabs me while jumping up and down. Later on Korea scores again and looks strong.
With 10 minutes left in the game, I leave for the subway to avoid the hoards. On the subway ride home I
look through my pictures and reflect on a wild and crazy ride.
